I think sadly I have had to say goodbye to our summer trip to Italy this year. Sad though it is to miss it this year, we will go back next year and hopefully, experience all the joy of Liguria in 2021.

One of my favourite things about our summers in Levanto is the gentle rhythm of the day. We get up, go and sit and have a coffee then cycle to the market to buy the days provisions, maybe stop for a gelato, have a long lazy lunch and then go for a late afternoon swim before an aperitivo in the square.

When the friendly alimentari owner in the market has fresh wobbly ricottas on his counter I am unable to resist. I love it served super fresh with chestnut honey, or mix it with shredded basil and a little lemon zest and fill courgette flowers with it before deep-frying them till crisp - perfect with a glass of chilled white wine.

Since we aren’t going to see the friendly face of the cheese man, I have been making my own version this summer and it’s really rather good. It is not proper ricotta but it is pretty similar and it tastes great. Here’s how you do it…

You need:

1 ltr of whole milk,

1 cup of double cream

1 teaspoon sea salt.

Bring this just to boiling point then take it off the heat. Stir in 2 or 3 tablespoons of good quality white wine vinegar and then leave it to settle. You will see the milk mixture separate into curds and whey.

Allow it to sit for half an hour or so and then strain into a sieve or ricotta mould, (I annoyed everyone by bringing one back in our luggage 2 years ago) and leave it to drain.

When it has drained turn it out and use it in your recipe. if you want to keep it for a few days, place it in a covered bowl in the fridge.

You can use it to stuff pasta, or to make a whipped ricotta dip.